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Used Clothes as Development Aid: The Political Economy of Rags (SIDA) (introduction...) Introduction (introduction...) Four possible positions Our plan of analysis Possible empirical questions Theoretical questions The organization of the report Our conclusions Acknowledgments Part I: The used-clothes trade Chapter 1: Used-clothes exports Worldwide textile and clothing trade, including Third World exports Worldwide gross and net used-clothes exports, 1984-'93 Twenty-four net used-clothes exporting countries, 1984-'93 Gross exports of 127 countries or trading territories in 1990 Commercial used-clothes exporters: the ''rag merchants'' Charitable used-clothes (and other) exports Sweden's used-clothes collections, exports, and imports Summary and conclusions Chapter 2: Used-Clothes Imports (introduction...) Ninety net used-clothes importing countries, 1984-'93 Gross imports of 181 countries or trading territories in 1990 Distribution of used clothes in Rwanda Distribution of used clothes in Zambia Summary and conclusions Chapter 3: The general context of the used-clothes trade (introduction...) Popular images: producer organizations, labor unions, and the mass media A possibly more balanced, African media view National government used-clothes trade policies and practices Summary and conclusions Chapter 4: NGO attitudes and involvement in the used-clothes trade (introduction...) The naked truth (1988): PS and UFF used-clothes exports to Mozambique Another slightly out-of-date example: the Swedish Red Cross (1992) Combining commercial used-clothes sales with development projects (UFF) Non-Swedish and international NGO attitudes towards used-clothes exports Commercial ''for-profit'' involvement in used-clothes collection and distribution Summary and conclusions Part II-A: Analysis of the effects of the used-clothes trade in general Chapter 5: Theoretical welfare effects of unsubsidized imports (introduction...) Initial assumptions: Perfect markets (full employment of resources), free trade Why are used-clothes imports welfare-maximizing? (Real goods are real income) Our analytic strategy Government support via production subsidy to capture positive externality Other arguments for protection of infant industries Production subsidy effects on exporting, and benefits Less than fully functioning markets: Unemployment Government support via import tariffs The negative side-effect of tariffs Less than fully functioning markets: Unemployment again Conclusions Chapter 6: Empirical welfare effects of unsubsidized imports (introduction...) Haggblade's analysis of the economic effects of used-clothes imports in Rwanda Global extensions of Haggblade's analysis, including a multi-market model Conclusion Chapter 7: A brief history and sociology of the used-clothes trade (introduction...) LDCs: Hansen's study of used clothes in modern Zambia The re-use of second-hand goods in modern industrial countries Lemire's study of the used-clothes trade in eighteenth century Britain Used clothes for disaster relief Conclusions Part II-B: Analysis of the effects of subsidizing used-clothes imports Chapter 8: Theoretical welfare effects of subsidized imports (introduction...) Introduction of a freight subsidy The positive externality (infant industry) argument again Less than fully functioning markets: Unemployment yet again Distributional effects: Benefiting the poor Import subsidy effects on exporting, and benefits If there is no domestic clothes production Dumping, and other cautions regarding who gets the subsidy, and how Conclusions Chapter 9: Alternative costs and best use of cash and clothes (introduction...) The cost of the freight subsidy The alternative cost of the freight subsidy: Cash Best use of the cash Best use of the clothes Situations where freight subsidies would be warranted: Catastrophes, no supply Conclusions Part III: Summary and policy recommendations Summary Policy recommendations Appendices Appendix 1: Terms of reference for the study Appendix 2: Statistical tables Appendix 3: Notes on statistical problems and their implications Appendix 4: Some philosophical notes Appendix 5: Some labor and mass media views Appendix 6: National trade policies Appendix 7: Swedish NGOs Appendix 8: Food aid as an example of commodity aid Appendix 9: The used-clothes trade in eighteenth century britain References